Northern Ireland Outdoors Forum - Hiking, camping and more
Outdoor Activities => Northern Ireland Camping and Bushcraft => Topic started by: cerbera147 on May 27, 2011
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After seeing J's hobo stove on another thread it sparked my interest, excuse the pun :D
http://www.ni-wild.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=940.0
If nothing it gives extra heat where an open fire is either prohibited or just not a good idea ;D
I found several how to guides on the interweb but thought this was the easiest
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73329&
Good video here as well
At its simplest it's just an Ikea drainer at £2.85. I'm sure there are other bits to add but so far I'm happy with my work ;D Something to lift it up of the ground would be good but I'm sure 'nature' would provide something :)
The link above has plenty of pics but here's some of mine. It was really only an experiment but it worked well and did boil up water a treat.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/cerbera147/P5272477.jpg) (http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/cerbera147/P5272479.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/cerbera147/P5272484.jpg) (http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/cerbera147/P5272489.jpg)
Ikea is literally around the corner from Decathlon so what are you waiting for? Just don't bring the missus ;) I think Poundstretcher do something similiar for a similiar price :)
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Awesome, now you're ready to cook. As long as you keep the wood really small and don't let it burn low it works quite well.
We generally get a firelog and break it into small chunks and bring it along with the hobo stove to summit camps. One firelog will burn for a couple of hours if it's not too windy. Also you can get a disposable turkey tray and wrap it round 3/4 of the stove it will reflect heat out the front and makes it burn slower. Similarly you can put a bit of tray across the top to also reflect heat towards you which also makes it burn much slower.
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I love this, and I have an Ikea cutlery holder already. So what do you cut the hole in the side with?
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I used a dremel but I'm sure there are other ways. However, I'm not convinced the hole is necessary. Generally the stove needs plenty of fuel so it doesn't go out and for me, the fuel tends to be higher than the opening meaning you can't use it to put stuff in but stuff will fall out. Personally, I'd leave the opening altogether. With all the holes already there there's plenty of air getting in.
I love this, and I have an Ikea cutlery holder already. So what do you cut the hole in the side with?
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Planning a trip to Ikea tomorrow..
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I love this, and I have an Ikea cutlery holder already. So what do you cut the hole in the side with?
I actually managed it with pliers; my Leatherman ;D
It's quite easy to get through, just give it a good file down when you're done.
I used a dremel but I'm sure there are other ways. However, I'm not convinced the hole is necessary. Generally the stove needs plenty of fuel so it doesn't go out and for me, the fuel tends to be higher than the opening meaning you can't use it to put stuff in but stuff will fall out. Personally, I'd leave the opening altogether. With all the holes already there there's plenty of air getting in.
TBH I just followed the crowd with the hole in the side. I imagine if you're using a tin can then definitely but this is one holy (http://forum.multitool.org/Smileys/default/angel.gif) holey drainer so perhaps it is overkill.
From what I read some like to feed fuel through the opening whilst the pot is on top.
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ps. a couple of tweaks I've seen people do include using 3/4 bolts on the bottom to make feet to increase air flow....and/or also a couple of bolts on the inside at the top to support a cup that is smaller than the stove's diameter.
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I think I will give one of these a go today
Matthew
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ps. a couple of tweaks I've seen people do include using 3/4 bolts on the bottom to make feet to increase air flow....and/or also a couple of bolts on the inside at the top to support a cup that is smaller than the stove's diameter.
Couple of old tent pegs work a treat as well :)
Something to raise it would be great; might need to get my Dad involved ;)
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Rite my turn, I got a strainer from pound stretcher for £1.50 earlier and set about cutting it up.
Tools used
• Hole saw
• hand drill
• angle grinder
Steps
1. cut a 60mm diameter hole in the bottom to allow ash to fall out of
2. center punch and drill holes for the M4 bolts to fit in
3. use angle grinder to cut out the front opening
4. screw in feet
5. Smooth edges with grinder.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0924.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0950.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0948.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0941.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0930.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0929.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/IMG_0927.jpg)
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I knew you'd pimp yours :)
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Looks great (http://forum.multitool.org/Smileys/default/541.gif)
Two questions ;D
- How did do the feet?
- What are you burning?
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I knew you'd pimp yours :)
Am I that predictable?
To be fair the cutout in the middle is not needed, I think V2 will just have some random 15 mm holes bored into it.
Looks great (http://forum.multitool.org/Smileys/default/541.gif)
Two questions ;D
- How did do the feet?
- What are you burning?
I used a machine screw and put a nut in the end, screwing it down 5mm to account for the material. I pushed it through the hole and added another nut on the inside so the steel container was held between the two nuts.
I was burning an old bit of whitewood, which came from an old bed slat. To start with there was just a bit of sawdust.
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Thanks; might try adding some feet :)
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I am not sure they do very much. I might make a central spike with holes around that for the ash to fall out of.
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Something along the lines of this, just excuse the crude quick cad drawing.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/3.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/2.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/1.jpg)
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Love the spike on the bottom
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We always bring firelogs broken into chunks to burn in the hobo if there wont be any wood about (like on a mountain). On Saturday night Matt had a log cut into 3 sections rather than into small chunks and it definitely burned longer so it's defo a better idea, plus easier.
We reckoned in low wind one log lasted about 2 hours.
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Are you sure you got these in Poundstretcher? I was in there at lunch and could only see the typical bowl shaped ones.
Maybe Ballymena has none in stock?
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I got mine in Ikea.
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I got mine in Ikea as well.
I read on other forums Poundstretchers and Dunelm Mill. There is a Dunelm Mill in the Alban Retail Park where B&Q used to be.
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I see. Think I read on this post someone got it from poundstretcher.
I read on other forums Poundstretchers and Dunelm Mill. There is a Dunelm Mill in the Alban Retail Park where B&Q used to be.
I know where thats at. Just a bit far a walk to manage there and back during my lunch break. ;)
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I got mine in Poundstretcher Bangor. Isle two, five metres from the back wall.
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Matthew have you got a grid ref for that?
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Matthew have you got a grid ref for that?
I will go one better lat and long 54.654803,-5.69728
well I set about a bit of stove desig after talking with Jonno and it looks like I am going for a wood gas stove.
According to Google the following blurb should explain things, Certain stove designs are in effect a gasifier working on the updraft principle - the air passes up through the fuel, which can be a column of rice husks, and is combusted, then reduced to carbon monoxide by the residual char on the surface. The resulting gas is then burnt by heated secondary air coming up a concentric tube. Such a device behaves very much like a gas stove.
An alternative stove based on the downdraft principle and typically built with nested cylinders also provides high efficiency. Combustion from the top creates a gasification zone with the gas escaping downwards through ports located at the base of the burner chamber. The gas mixes with additional incoming air to provide a secondary burn. Most of the CO produced by gasification is oxidized to CO2 in the secondary combustion cycle, therefore gasification stoves carry lower health risks than conventional cooking fires.
This photo should help to explain.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/Wood_gas_stove_Principle_of_operation.png/528px-Wood_gas_stove_Principle_of_operation.png)
Anyway some photos
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/1.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/2.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/3.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/4.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/5.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/6.jpg)
Matthew
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Can't wait to see this bad boy in action. I've been interested in wood gasification stoves for a while (who wouldn't!) but haven't seen one in action.
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Can't wait to see this bad boy in action. I've been interested in wood gasification stoves for a while (who wouldn't!) but haven't seen one in action.
i agree, that looks like a hobo stove and a half!!
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Are you taking orders to pimp our hobo stoves?
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How about air holes on just one 'side' of the unit so you can regulate the flame by twisting the holes into our out of the wind?
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Are you taking orders to pimp our hobo stoves?
No no it is purely an exercise to keep me busy. I am going for the Pimp my fire steel next week.
How about air holes on just one 'side' of the unit so you can regulate the flame by twisting the holes into our out of the wind?
ooh there is a good idea, perhaps an addition. I will see what I can come up with
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something like this should do the trick and is attachable.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/1-1.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/2-1.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e144/matthewrblack/new%20stove/4-1.jpg)
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I'm assuming if you're planning this you're already well familiar with the Bushbuddy (http://www.bushbuddy.ca/)? Your plans look sweet, and looks like it would make both a great stove and portable fire :) Looking forward to seeing the finished item!
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Had a look on Ebay.. Check out this seller..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HOBO-STOVE-METHS-BURNER-KIT-camping-hiking-bushcraft-/320710526448?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Camping_CookingSupplies_ET&hash=item4aabd645f0
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320697531558
Or this one..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WOODGAS-STOVE-burner-camping-bushcraft-survival-hiking-/320698020642?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Camping_CookingSupplies_ET&hash=item4aab177322
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this is a good wee video
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Hobo in a half shell! Never realised a wood-gas burner could be so simple.... there's another summer project, after the micro tarp and the Lynx can meths stove.
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Hobo in a half shell! Never realised a wood-gas burner could be so simple.... there's another summer project, after the micro tarp and the Lynx can meths stove.
Or alternatively a coke can.
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Nah - the Lynx can is better.... it's a side-burner and strong enough to support the pot set on top ;)
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poked holes in a big bean can and it worked about the same! Prob about the same price too although you do get the delicious beany insides to work your way through.. all kilogram of it lol. Read somewhere that the ikea one has too many holes to be properly efficient but thats just nitpicking, the thing does work! ive got a mini version of this in the house somewhere so will do a boil time comparison at some point!